Active UV Filters
UV Boosters
The Makings of a sunscreen formula
These are the active ingredients in sunscreens that actually shield your skin from UV rays by absorbing UV radiation. Some filters protect against UVB (burning) rays, others against UVA (aging) rays. To be labeled broad-spectrum, a sunscreen formula must include filters that protect against both UVA and UVB rays. In the U.S., this claim is regulated by the FDA.
UV filters come in two main types:
- Mineral (physical)—zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
- Chemical—like avobenzone and octocrylene
Read more about these ingredients in the UV filters section below
Boosters are considered inactive ingredients that may increase the efficiency and/or efficacy of the actual UV filters in a sunscreen formula. Boosters are not in all sunscreen formulas, but if you see them in yours, here's a bit more about them...
While some boosters work by increasing uniformity of application or by providing antioxidant (formula stabilizing) capabilities, some boosters do absorb UV radiation, which increases the SPF value. Are they always used for boosting UV protection in a sunscreen formula? No. But when used in higher percentages, they can start doing the heavy lifting.
A really important note: Technically, boosters are considered inactive ingredients in sunscreen formulas, but for the purposes of this checker, we separated them from inactive ingredients to provide more info on what some boosters are and their functions and purposes in a sunscreen formula.
These ingredients are basically everything else in a sunscreen formula, from texture enhancers to preservatives.
These ingredients don't contribute to sun protection but affect the feel, finish, and wear of a final sunscreen formula.
A really important note: UV boosters are technically considered inactive ingredients in sunscreen formulas. But for this checker, we separated out boosters from inactive ingredients to provide more info on what boosters are and their functions and purposes in a sunscreen formula.
Understanding UV
UV Filters
UV Radiation
PSA: Better Sunscreen is Coming to the U.S.!
After more than 20 years, the FDA has approved a new sunscreen active ingredient: (aka BEMT, or, Parsol Shield). BEMT is known for its photostability, broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection, and its ability to deliver high UV protection without compromising texture.
Hint: you might see it in Dieux’s sunscreen one day... Sign up for updates on our SPF here.
FAQ
It depends! While lots of skin tints on the market now feature SPF, it’s challenging to get the required ¼ of a teaspoon on your face without a tint looking cakey. It’s possible, but it’s something to be aware of.
We recommend using a sunscreen with SPF 30 (minimum) and with broad-spectrum protection. If you can’t get enough of your tinted sunscreen on your face to get the stated protection on the bottle (if you use less, you risk getting less protection), layer underneath a sunscreen with similar filters.
If you’re allergic to UV filters, you may get a reaction, but the ingredients themselves are unlikely to “clog pores.” Looking at textures and the full ingredient list is a great way to determine if something will break you out. If richer creams tend to be a no-no for you, a thick, rich mineral or chemical sunscreen might not be the best option.
People have allergies to mineral and chemical sunscreens, so it’s important to observe how your skin reacts, and we always recommend patch testing formulas before incorporating them into your routine. If you’re allergic to chemical sunscreens, you may have an allergic reaction to boosters in mineral formulas.
As long as your sunscreen is broad spectrum (meaning it protects from both UVA and UVB radiation), at least 30 SPF, and is applied regularly, there is no wrong answer here. It’ll all come down to personal preference!
From this article on the Guardian, we agree with renowned reef scientist Terry Hughes:
“The three main threats to coral reefs are global warming, overfishing and coastal water pollution,” says Prof Terry Hughes, former director of the Australian Research Council Centre of Excellence for Coral Reef Studies at Queensland’s James Cook University, and one of the world’s leading coral reef experts. “Coral bleaching is triggered by rising temperatures due primarily to burning fossil fuels. We have already seen three global-scale coral bleaching events due to record-breaking heatwaves, in 1998, 2010 and 2015–2016, which affected 50-70% of tropical reefs. Even the most remote reefs, far from mass tourism or sunscreen, are affected by global warming. There is no scientific evidence that use of sunscreens by people has a harmful effect on coral reefs.”
The studies looking at coral reefs used extremely high levels of chemical sunscreen filters to bleach reefs. When you put high levels of zinc next to reefs, they also bleach reefs. Dr. Michelle Wong has many posts dispelling this harmful myth that uses fear (and your good nature) to sell you sunscreen.
It’s a more robust question, and “reef safe” sunscreen doesn’t mean much. If you’re wondering why certain regions ban certain filters, politicians aren’t scientists and they don’t always listen to experts. If you are swimming near coral reefs, our recommendation is to wear wetsuits and protective clothing if you’re concerned!
Using FDA and European sunscreen databases as the backbone of our sunscreen research, this tool was created by our co-founder and Chief Brand Officer Charlotte Palermino and reviewed by our two internal chemists: co-founder and Chief Product Officer Joyce de Lemos and Dieux’s formulation and product development manager Becca Perry.
Becca’s experience is in sunscreen development, having worked on formulas at a renowned contract manufacturer, which helped inform our explanations and how we approach education around boosters. This database was then reviewed by cosmetic chemist, PhD student researcher, and content creator/educator, Ava Perkins.
This tool is made and maintained by humans, not AI (a reminder, AI has hallucinations), with individual sources used to further inform ingredient education. If you think we've missed something, please reach out to sunscreener@dieuxskin.mom.
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