If your skin barrier had a favorite ingredient, it would probably be ceramides. Why? Well, ceramides are lipids, fatty molecules found in the skin’s outermost layer, and they work to reinforce the skin barrier, helping to prevent transepidermal water loss—which plumps the skin and minimizes the look of fine lines and wrinkles—calm irritation, and protect against external stressors. In other words, ceramides are essential for keeping your skin smooth, healthy, and resilient.
Here, we’re taking a deep dive into ceramides, explaining how they work, why they’re so important, and how to incorporate them into your routine.
Ceramides in Skincare: Where They Come From, How They Work, and What They Do for Skin
Your skin barrier is the outermost layer of your skin. It’s made up of skin cells surrounded by a lipid complex, which consists of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. This protective lipid structure helps your skin keep moisture in and external stressors (think: irritants, pollutants, etc.) out. Ceramides make up 50% of the lipids in this structure, making them very important to maintaining a healthy skin barrier.
Picture your skin barrier—the outer layer of your skin—as a brick wall. The bricks are your skin cells, and the mortar holding everything together is the lipid complex, which includes ceramides. When the mortar is intact, the wall is able to do its job. But when the mortar cracks or develops gaps, the wall isn’t able to stay as strong or act as a protectant.
The state of your skin barrier is an important factor in how your skin behaves. When the barrier is healthy—a.k.a. there are no gaps in the lipid structure—your skin feels hydrated, calm, and balanced. But when it’s compromised, the barrier struggles to keep moisture in and harmful irritants out, which can lead to dryness, redness, sensitivity, breakouts, and inflammation.
We naturally produce our own ceramides, but production decreases as we age. Plus, seasonal changes, harsh skincare products, UV exposure, and other environmental stressors can also cause ceramide levels to drop.
When this happens, the skin barrier can start to break down, and a damaged barrier has trouble holding in water and protecting the skin. Using topical skincare products with ceramides—like Instant Angel Lipid-Rich Firming Moisturizer—helps replenish the supply, keeping the skin barrier healthy, hydrated, and resilient.
Here’s what ceramides do for your skin:
- Supports the Skin Barrier: Ceramides help close the gaps between skin cells, creating a strong and resilient barrier. A strong skin barrier keeps moisture in and irritants out, and ceramides play an important role in maintaining that strength. Plus, when skin is more resilient, it’s able to better tolerate active ingredients like exfoliants or retinoids.
- Reduces Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL): When your barrier is compromised, your skin loses water faster than it can hold onto it (this process is called transepidermal water loss), making your skin dry and flaky. Ceramides can help fill in those gaps in the barrier, slowing down moisture loss and keeping skin hydrated. This plumps the skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines, leaving skin looking firm, smooth, and full.
- Calms Sensitivity and Irritation: When skin is feeling reactive or uncomfortable, ceramides can help reinforce the barrier to keep irritants out. This barrier reinforcement helps to calm inflammation, soothe redness, and make the skin less reactive overall.
- Supports Long-Term Skin Health: Rather than providing a quick fix, ceramides work to keep your barrier intact, resilient, and calm, both in the moment and for years to come. They create the conditions for your skin to function properly and handle daily stressors.
Humectants vs. Emollients vs. Occlusives: Where Do Ceramides Fit In?
All moisturizing ingredients—a.k.a. ingredients that help increase the skin’s moisture levels—can be divided into three categories: humectants, emollients, and occlusives.
Humectants, like hyaluronic acid, attract water to the skin’s surface from moisture in the air. They can also draw water to the surface from the skin’s deeper layers. Humectants work to boost the skin’s water levels.
Occlusives, which include ingredients like petrolatum, don’t add hydration to the skin; instead, they form a barrier on top of the skin to seal in moisture and stop it from evaporating. They can help keep your skin hydrated for longer.
Emollients—ceramides are a part of this category—fill in the gaps between skin cells to reinforce the barrier, prevent water loss, and help to soften and smooth the skin.
You’ll want to apply products with these ingredients in order of thinnest to thickest. Humectants are typically the thinnest and most lightweight out of the three, so they should be first. Emollients come next, followed by occlusives to lock in moisture.
Do You Need a Moisturizer with Ceramides? (Short Answer: Yes)
Because ceramides play an essential role in supporting a strong and healthy skin barrier, all skin types can benefit from adding them into their routine.